Traditional Attire and Jewellery of the Koli Community of Mumbai
Jewellery is of enormous importance in the Koli community as it reflects their cultural background, social position, and aesthetic tastes. Although Koli women and men both wear jewellery, women tend to wear it more frequently in their daily lives. Generations often pass down jewellery collections. Kolis prefer gold jewelry because it is associated with the presence of Lakshmi, the goddess of prosperity, wealth, and good fortune, in the household. People frequently purchase gold jewellery as a liquid asset, appreciating its enduring worth and versatility. You can easily sell it as a secure investment or use it as collateral for loans, ensuring quick access to funds when needed.
Gold also functions as a status symbol, representing the wearer’s social and economic standing within the community. Koli women often wear extravagant and heavy gold jewelry during weddings and festivals such as Narali Purnima and Ganesh Chaturthi, showcasing their wealth and position. Traditionally, gold jewelry is an essential gift given to the bride by her family, providing financial protection for her. On their wedding day, Koli brides wear ornate gold pieces such as mangalsutra (necklace), toe rings, nath (nose ring), bugadi (traditional ear ornaments that hang from the upper part of the ear), and bangles. These pieces often feature elaborate designs, maritime motifs, and fine craftsmanship, reflecting the community’s rich history and traditional lifestyle as fishermen and mariners.
Exposure to global fashion trends via media and social platforms has influenced Koli women's fashion choices. The traditional Koli dress and jewellery have undergone significant changes due to urbanisation, cultural assimilation, and economic upliftment. There is a shift towards simpler and lighter jewellery pieces that are more practical for daily wear. The rising cost of gold has also made traditional heavy gold jewellery less affordable, leading many women to opt for cheaper alternatives, including imitation jewellery. Consequently, weddings, religious festivals, and community gatherings now largely restrict the use of gold jewellery. Younger Koli women have increasingly adopted western clothing styles like jeans and t-shirts. For daily work, they prefer functional attire such as salwar kameez and kurtis. In contrast, the older generation, who still wear sarees daily, now prefer the six-yard saree over the nine-yard saree, or Nauvari, reserving the latter for special occasions.
Men’s attire has also undergone noticeable changes. Traditionally, Koli men wore the dhoti, a long piece of cloth wrapped around the waist and legs, tied securely at the waist. The dhoti allowed for the free movement necessary for fishing activities and was made from comfortable, breathable cotton suitable for the humid coastal climate. They also wore a topi (cap) to protect their heads from the sun. However, modern lifestyles necessitate more practical and comfortable clothing. Today, Koli fishermen often wear loose-fitting tunics or shirts made from light, breathable fabrics. Marine motifs such as boats, crabs, and fishes often adorn these garments, reflecting the community's traditional livelihood.
Note: The photo documentation of Koli jewellery and traditional attire took place at the Mumbai Koli Seafood Festival 2024. In February 2024, the Vesava Koli Mahila Samajik Sanstha organized a three-day food festival at the Versova Welfare Ground.
Koli women traditionally wear hirva chooda (green bangles) when they get married. Typically, Koli women pair these with plain or patterned gold bangles.
The gaathla, also known as the mangalsutra, is a long necklace with multiple strands of black beads interspersed with gold (on the right). The mangalsutra is an essential piece of jewelry for married women, worn from the day of their wedding through their married life. There are two versions: a simpler one (on the left) for daily use and a longer, more elaborate one for special occasions and festivals (on the right).
A woman adorns the mangalsutra alongside a Lakshmi Haar. The Lakshmi Haar, as its name implies, is a long necklace featuring circular designs embossed with the image of the Goddess Lakshmi, a symbol of wealth, fertility, and prosperity.
Married Koli women wear nath (nose ring) and bugadi (traditional ear ornaments that hang from the upper part of the ear). These pieces are significant parts of the Koli bridal attire and symbolize the community’s cultural identity.
The Koli man is wearing a kanthi featuring Lord Shiva and his consort, Goddess Parvati. Both women and men wear the kanthi only on special occasions. He inherited this particular kanthi from his mother.
The Kanthi medallion features Agni, the Hindu god of fire. The kanthi is a multi-layer necklace made of linked chains, often featuring deities or other cultural motifs on circular medallions.
Koli men commonly wear gold pendants and chains. The pendant this man is wearing features a portrait of a deity, most likely Khandoba or Shinya Mahadev.
Koli jewellery frequently features marine motifs, such as this flying fish pendant, symbolising the community’s close ties to the sea.
Married women wear thauja, a thick mangalsutra (necklace) with multiple strands of black beads, typically consisting of five or nine strands. The woman in the picture is wearing a thauja with a pendant featuring a double fish motif, symbolic of Kolis' fishing livelihood.
Traditionally, Maharashtra's coastal climate suits both cotton and silk for making Lugra sarees. People prefer cotton for everyday wear due to its breathability and comfort, while they often reserve silk for special occasions and festivals. Lugra sarees often feature bright and vibrant colours like red, green, yellow, and blue, which hold cultural significance and reflect the lively spirit of the Koli community.
Koli women drape the Lugra saree in a way that complements their active lifestyle. Koli women wrap the saree around their waist, tucking pleats in the front for ease of movement during outdoor work. Wearing the khadki, a white scarf or dupatta, over the upper body completes the attire.
For additional coverage and to ensure it stays in place while working, women typically drape the Lugra saree by taking the pallu (the loose end of the saree) over the shoulder and tucking it at the waist in the back or bringing it around to the front.
The khopa (classic bun) is one of the most traditional hairstyles for Koli women. It involves gathering the hair at the back of the head and twisting it into a neat bun. As is customary in the region, they adorn their hair buns with scented and colourful flowers.
The ambada is a low bun typically positioned at the nape of the neck. This is a simple and elegant hairstyle for Koli women. During festivals and celebrations, they often adorn the bun with flowers, typically jasmine, and gold ornaments to add a decorative touch.
Koli men wear the Koli cap, also known as the Agri topi, which in Mumbai is recognised as the fishermen’s cap due to its distinctive red colour.
Maritime motifs such as fish, crabs, and boats adorn the front part of the surka through embroidery. Wrapped around the waist and legs, the surka is a long piece of cloth that creates a triangular shape at the front. Traditionally, Koli fishermen wore a short dhoti known as langoti for sea fishing, reserving the surka for festivals and special occasions.